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Newbie Wannabe here

Joined
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Location
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I've been slinging a canoe paddle for about 15 years now. After the first time in a canoe, I swore I would never get in another one, but I have and I love it. My wife bought me the instructional book by Gil Gilpatric, and since then I want to build a strip canoe. After my neighbor fell an ash tree that the bugs killed off, I started with a simple seat project for my little 13 solo Mohawk. Well so I thought simple. At first the tree was a black ash, there's a difference that I didn't know, so my first two seat frames were a disaster. I had to split the log by hand, pictured is a peach log but same process. I'll have a bandsaw one of these days. The first one I made was 3/4 inch thick, and it broke. The 2nd frame was about an inch thick, and I thought it was perfect, but after I weaved the seat, and installed it, it busted in 4 places when I sat on it. I do weigh about 215 pounds. Maybe to many pork skins and twinkies that this old hillbilly has eaten? Any how I had a piece of sawmill oak that I thought would make 2 seats for my tandem canoe little heavier then ash, but not by much to worry about. I hand cut the mortise and tenon joints, and weaved the seat with plastic artificial cane. I've got one seat done, and I'm weaving the other one. I've bounced up and down on it, and it didn't break. Plus it is way more comfortable that the original seats. I'm enjoying your all's posts. Thank you
Roy

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This one shows the seat a little better. I'm working on the bow seat.

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Thanks to the emerald ash borer I think we all will be awash in dead ash for a while but when the trees go, where do we get gunwale material?
 
Roy, the wood is teaching you some lessons, and before you know it, you'll be an expert. Grain orientation is one of them.

I'd like to offer some advise, from what I've learned making seats.

First the holes you have drilled seem too close to the inside, with that many, I can see that split.

Try thicker stock, and do a small mortise.
I'm a 240# guy, and here's my seats. I start with 5/4 stock.
I also use 1/2" Snow shoe cord, instead of cane. The cord will likely outlast my canoe.

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I like your joint. It won't twist that way. Did you use screws to pull it together then glue a dowel in hole, or did you dowel with no screws? The first seat frame I was trying to use the natural bow of the wood because I liked the contoured look, but I got it to thin and the wrong wood species. I really need a bandsaw. These pictures are the original ones when I first tried hacking the frame out. Learning curve. I will be doing my solo canoe seat next, and I'm going to try your methods. Thanks, and by the way I like how your carry yoke attaches.

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Jim makes nice seats. Karin has a jig made up to contour laminated seats and they work out really well. I find the contoured and EXTRA wide ones to be very comfy. Just sayin.

Christy
 
Yes his seats look comfortable. I've lots to learn. I wish I would've apprenticed in wood working years ago.

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Thanks !
Sorry for the late answer ! I was out of town paddling.

I just use 1/4" hard wood dowels. and epoxy. With some creative designing, I would think it could be done without the dowels. Maybe a dovetail ?

I've not had much experience draw knives, but intrigued with things made with old tools !

Jim
 
Yeh... I'm not very good with a draw knife. The first seat frame I made, I shaved to much off in one spot. Takes practice, so I'll work on that some other time.

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