How good is a ten degree bent shaft paddle? What can it do?

[cflcanoe]

Have maybe found a bargain that I can afford. A ten degree composite bent shaft paddle that weighs 16 oz for $105.00 new. Little stock left so will share the details later. Yes it is from a major manufacture. Just trying to figure out if it is worth buying a 10 degree paddle for use in a Wildfire. 75% sitting 25% kneeling. My preferred paddling spots are black water creeks, spring runs and other narrow twisting waterways. Over half the paddling I do involves going upstream and then back down stream in mild current here in Florida. Do not want to lose too much speed though in going through the straight and wide waterways that are the pathway top my preferred spots. Always had the fourteen degree old style Bending Branches BB specials or Gray Owl fourteen degree. Was wondering how much energy would be lost over a fourteen or twelve degree and how much control would be gained with the lesser degree bent.

I do not have the ability to try out paddles or canoes were I am. Three hour drive to the canoe store that dose not do demos. Have only seen two mid to high end canoes other than mine this year on the water. Most of what I see and paddle among are 75% rec kayaks and 20% touring/sea kayak. Yes I live in heathen territory. So if I do not own or have a past history with some canoe gear this board is my knowledge base. The only tail based paddle I am interested in is a Manatee tail (sugar island) during this post.

Yes I know about the ZRE black recreational, and the Bending Branches Black Pearl II. To barrow a phrase from another Canoe Tripping member "due to unfortunate circumstances" such paddles are very nice but out of my price range.

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

I use bent shafts in my Wildfire and every other solo canoe. I kneel 92% of the time and sit 8%. If you have a solid correction stroke, you can correct easily with a bent, and of course you can switch paddle.

I primarily use a 12 degree but have also used a 15 degree, and also a double bend that probably averages out to about an 8 degrees. My Sawyer Manta is either 10 or 11 degrees. I adapt easily to all of them. My "straight" paddle for many years was a 2.5 degree S blade. Perhaps my stroke goes in and comes out of the water in slightly different places depending on the angle. I now have a ZRE straight as well as ZRE 12 degree. Those are the only two I now use, and I use the bent about 90% of the time. For something like Juniper or a narrow log-choked stream, like those tributaries of the Ocklawaha and Wekiva, I'd use my straight paddle for better draws, sideslips and other maneuverability.

If this is all carbon (shaft and blade) I'd certainly go for it at that price. I can't imagine there's much difference from a 12 degree. I wouldn't buy a carbon shaft, wooden blade paddle, however.

Getting the right length is the challenge if you don't already know your favorite bent shaft length, which should be several inches less than your straight shaft length. I'm 5-9 and all my bent shafts are in the 48.5" to 50" range, with the 48.5" now being my favorite.

Fast switch paddling with a bent is the most efficient way for me to go upstream on spring runs and blackwater rivers.

 

[yellowcanoe]

The cogenti now swear by a 12 degree bend and the 14 is passe. That said any bent shaft will be more efficient than a straight for the sitting paddler. I'm not about to throw out 14 degree paddles because the best ergonomic angle is now deemed to be 12.. I can't tell the difference,

The difference I can tell is the swing weight Yes ounces matter. The paddle you are considering is relatively heavy for a composite paddle but if you are used to BB paddles in wood which are relatively heavy the composite will be more pleasurable.. Looking at the Bending Branches website it looks like they now make paddles with an 11 degree bend.
Just remember to hang on to it! My Zav has a tendency to get thrown with hit and switch ( its ten oz but considerably pricier and its 22 years old, Not in the budget now if I had to replace)

I think you will like your purchase if it fits. A guesstimate is the LOA overall of the bent paddle would be 5-6 inches shorter than your straights. Measure the shaft only with a current paddle and compare with the new.. that will give you a better guess. The shaft length should be roughly similar if your current paddle is the appropriate length for you.

 

[Mason]

If you're coming from wood paddles, it's worth it just to lose the weight. I have an old Zav that's 14oz, and it's a delight to use over even a very nice Grey Owl at 22oz. It'll put a smile on your face, and I doubt you'll notice the 2 degree difference. I've paddled 14 to 10, and the milder bends are much nicer for draws, braces, etc. 14s are good for going straight, but not as versatile.

 

[Guest]

The 10 degree is generally better for your preferred narrow waterways. More important, than a couple of degree difference either way, is getting the optimal shaft length, which should probably be on the longer side for your 25 percent kneeling and correctve strokes on the narrow waterways.

fwiw, personally, I like 11 degrees for most applications.

 

[BWCA66]

I believe that BB makes all 11degrees now, Cliff Jacobson's favorite. I like my 8 degree.

 

[Holmes375]

I have two Wenonah Black Lite bents, bought them both on sale for a very nice price. They are 10 degree paddles and I use them in all my canoes, but a Magic is my primary ride. I paddle kneeling about 2/3 of the time, sit when I need a leg stretch and rest. The Black Lites aren't quite as light as a Zav but I sure like them. Noticeably lighter than my lightest wood paddles. I use a 51" and a 54". My paddling is just about an even split between rivers and lakes. In the spring when the rivers are higher and faster I keep the straight paddle in play.

My hardest part of the straight to bent transition was breaking a decades old habit of palming the paddle. I also miss the side scull efficacy of the straight shaft. I'm no faster with a bent up river but I do notice less impact to the old man body I reside in.

 

[cflcanoe]

Well I broke down and bought the paddle from Wenonah They are having a after Christmas sale. 35% off, no sales tax for me and free snail shipping. Ends tomorrow. Had a hard time deciding. All most bought the Boundary Waters wood bent shaft model. Went with the tour light Elbow. Fiberglass blade (shrug) and carbon shaft. Oh well price performance ratio looks OK. Went with the 52 inch shaft that I normally use for bent. Was a scary decision. Have one chance to get it right at this time to replace my main paddle. So all your input was gladly accepted.

For some reason the Bending Branches BB specials keep on cracking on the non power face vertically right in the middle. The first one was still under warranty and now the one they replaced it with a little less than two years later. My Gray Owls are very old (1990's) and I have not done this to them. Dented, scratched, and wore off the finish a couple times sure. Cracked no. The Mohawk Bent shaft paddle that comes along with me almost every trip as a back up/abuse taker paddle kind of reminds me of a tank. Have questions about a semi being able to damage it. But it is heavy 1lb 14 oz. Dose not catch the water very well either. But if you need some thing to take abuse in shallow water or otherwise it the one for you.

By the way my one and only straight shaft is 56 inches and dose not see much use. It is Grey Owl and is a beast to swing from side to side. So "J" stroke or Canadian with that one.

 

[goonstroke]

...

For some reason the Bending Branches BB specials keep on cracking on the non power face vertically right in the middle. The first one was still under warranty and now the one they replaced it with a little less than two years later. My Gray Owls are very old (1990's) and I have not done this to them. Dented, scratched, and wore off the finish a couple times sure. Cracked no. The Mohawk Bent shaft paddle that comes along with me almost every trip as a back up/abuse taker paddle kind of reminds me of a tank. Have questions about a semi being able to damage it. But it is heavy 1lb 14 oz. Dose not catch the water very well either. But if you need some thing to take abuse in shallow water or otherwise it the one for you.

I've had a similar experience with a BB bent shaft wooden paddle, in fact mine has cracked three times. I keep it alive with epoxy, but it's a loaner/beater/doorstop now. The rock guard resin at the end of the blade makes it look formidable, but apparently the blade itself has a glass jaw.

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

I'm no faster with a bent up river

Curious about this, Holmes. Are you a correction stroke paddler or switcher going upstream?

Switching is empirically faster; racers prove that. You can switch with a straight paddle, of course. But since bents are shorter, you can aerially switch them faster. That's why racers use very light and short bents. The toss on the hand switch can be vertical and low because of the shortness of the paddle. I'm a mediocre switcher but I can switch my 48.5" bent much quicker and more accurately than any of my 54"-57" flat water straight paddles.

In addition, short bents allow you to push downward with your top arm as you crunch your abdomen, and allow your strokes to be shorter and quicker. This maintains glide speed between strokes, which is important when racing or just cruising upstream.

 

[joebh]

Cfl
where in Florida are you?
ii use a 48 or 47 " bent shaft paddle with my Rapidfire sitting in the highest bucket seat setting
you may find 52" too long

 

[cflcanoe]

Well joebh Do not like to get very specific on were I live on the internet. But lets just say half way between Orlando and Daytona wile being a smidgen closer to Daytona on the parking lot known as I-4

Wife's 50" bent shaft works well for me. Maybe a little better for forward movement. The little extra reach of the 52" for some reason feels better when trying to make maneuvers or corrections. While in the back of a tandem Starfire it is too long but a Bell Northstar and Madriver Explorer works well with 52". Mohawk (now Class5) Blazer and Mohawk Solo 14 seem to be about the same as the Wildfire. Yes I know, to many canoes not enough paddles.

You put a good hull in front of me in need of a little love at a very good price I will buy it. Although right now it would have to be a very,very,very good price on a great hull.

 

[alsg]

Can't let this go without offering an homage to my favorite movie, Spinal Tap. How good is a ten degree paddle? It's one better than a nine degree paddle. But it doesn't go to 11.

 

[snapper]

For what it's worth, I have a 10 degree We-no-nah paddle made from graphite. I picked it up because it was on sale and now I use it almost exclusively when paddling solo on flatwater; be it ponds, lakes or streams. Before this I used a 12 degree wooden paddle and never had any issues but the lighter weight is nice and I haven't noticed any real difference in my ability to control my paddle with the lessened angle.

That's all for now. Take care and until next time....be well.

snapper

 

[Holmes375]

Curious about this, Holmes. Are you a correction stroke paddler or switcher going upstream?

Switching is empirically faster; racers prove that. You can switch with a straight paddle, of course. But since bents are shorter, you can aerially switch them faster. That's why racers use very light and short bents. The toss on the hand switch can be vertical and low because of the shortness of the paddle. I'm a mediocre switcher but I can switch my 48.5" bent much quicker and more accurately than any of my 54"-57" flat water straight paddles.

In addition, short bents allow you to push downward with your top arm as you crunch your abdomen, and allow your strokes to be shorter and quicker. This maintains glide speed between strokes, which is important when racing or just cruising upstream.

I paddle most often single side correction. My switch technique is, well, less than well developed I'm not a skilled speed paddler in most respects. My crossing speeds are less than those I've seen posted here by others when the MPH topic comes up. My cruising/tripping speeds are fairly normal but I've never been good going fast in a canoe. I'm sure its my technique. I can paddle a 20 mile day and I'm pretty good in rather nasty stormy waters but I couldn't win a race if my life depended upon it.

My upstream paddling usually ends up single side correction and chase the low pressures on both sides. I often start out switching but I'm sloppy enough that I finally resort to my usual lily dippin' style.

I don't try to switch my 54" bent - its too long and I end up just banging things when I try to pour it on. I use that paddle for rough water and shoreline exploration. The 51" bent gets the most use. I should probably spend some time next season and work on developing a decent switch stroke. Always good to have another tool in the bag.

 

[cflcanoe]

Have been able to get out a couple of times now with the 10 degree Winona touring paddle. Dose not seem to slow forward speed even though it feels like it is grabbing less water. Belive that I am doing a few more strokes per minute with it over the 14 degree wood paddles. Were the real deference is felt is in the control strokes. While not as good as a straight shafts the difference was something that had to be gotten used too and was a pleasant surprise Saturday while working my way through the blow downs on Rock Springs Run.

 

[yellowcanoe]

Good to hear. It’s too dang hot for us so off to the Silver River we go tomorrow
i still have an old 14 degree Zaveral. Not much inclined to buy new
Biking in FL heat has us cooked