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Debsconeag Lake, Maine

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Midcoast Maine
We had a rare few days where our schedules synced, and we wanted to fit in an end-of-season trip. We decided on Densconeag because it's relatively close and we'd been there before so we could really maximize our time given that we only had two nights and three days.

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We arrived at Omaha Beach too late in the day to get on the water. The road was as we remembered it--you're on the Golden Road for a heartbeat, and then there is the turnoff and road into Omaha Beach that is rife with big holes and rocks. It had rained recently, so there were big puddles. It's not a horrible road, but I'm glad we took the truck.

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There was one other camper at Omaha Beach. We pitched our tent at the opposite end of the beach, cooked up a quick steak with onions and peppers, had a wee dram and hit the sack. We were up early to cross the West Branch of the Penobscot at Debsconeag Deadwater. It was still and within moments that amazing view of Katahdin emerged.

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After crossing the Deadwater, we entered the channel that cuts behind a couple islands, where we were enthusiastically greeted by otters and then, a little bit farther along, beavers.

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We paddled into the outlet stream of First Debsconeag Lake, losing our view of Katahdin and then soon entered the lake proper. We had planned to camp at the site to the right as we paddled into the lake (northeast corner of the lake behind the little peninsula), but a plume of smoke let us know it was taken. Our alternate site was the one on the left of the outlet stream, but as that beach came into view, we saw that site was taken too. That was a first for us, and we surprised for late September. Using the binos, we scoped the Lake's other site, which is at the opposite end, and it looked like it was open, so off we went. The wind picked up a bit as we crossed the lake, but it was at our back and we made good time.

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We had not chosen this site before because we know from scouting it on previous trips that it turns into a refrigerator early....but at least we'd have the morning sun, right? The temperature was cool, and the wind made it feel cooler. We got camp set-up and a fire going.

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I cooked up Ring of Sunshine, and we made a plan for the day over breakfast and coffee.

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We had to decide between the ice caves and the trail to the overlook, fishing or the hike to Second Debsconeag. We opted for the latter, as we had never hiked all the way through before and we'd been to the ice caves. We made the short paddle to the beginning of the trail, tied up the canoe, switched shoes, grabbed our packs and headed off.

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The trail to Second Debsconeag is under a mile, and you can cut off a little more time by paddling further up the stream before starting your portage.

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Part of the reason we wanted to walk it is because we'd like to do a trip where we portage into Second Debsconeag (and beyond!), but our recollection of the trail was that it would be a pretty miserable portage with the tripper. While parts of the trail would be smooth sailing, others would be not quite as enjoyable. Maybe we'll try it with our other canoe next summer. It was a great hike nonetheless.

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We arrived at the outlet of Second Debsconeag, where we fished for a couple hours, landing a few brookies and tons of perch.

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We eventually hiked back to camp, where we avoided the refrigerator for a while by hanging out for cocktails on the sunset rock on the back side of the campsite (shameless plug for the Angler's Pint www.AnglersPint.com).

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Then it was onto dinner and a fire...

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Followed by "They have an app for that"...

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The next morning's forecast was for clear with light winds, but starting at about 4am, I could hear the wind up high cranking right along. Hmmm. The day dawned with the wind having done a 180 and pretty pervasive cloud cover. So much for that morning sun.

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As we started breakfast, we got some sun, and the colors of the foliage were just starting to look good.

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As K made pancakes and duck eggs, I started packing--too quick a trip we were both thinking.

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While the site at this end of the lake is still not our favorite, it does have redeeming qualities. It is very private, which is nice, and, well, this view speaks for itself, I think:

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We put on the water and started our journey back across the lake.

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Within minutes, a stiff breeze turned into a good wind, creating some following seas that made sure I didn't stay dry in the stern. We hugged the southern shore and rocketed along with the wind at our backs. Once we entered the outlet stream, things calmed down. We decided to thread our way amongst the islands on the West Branch to avoid a pretty choppy deadwater. Paddling towards Katahdin, the scenery wasn't bad. ;-)

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Eventually we emerged from the last little cut and made the short sprint across the West Branch and then on to Omaha Beach. It was blowing pretty good when we were packing up, and it was good to be off the water. While it was a short trip, it was, as always, well worth it and will sustain us until we can wet our paddles again!
 
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Thanks for the TR and the pics. The loop there is high on my list of trips in the next few years.

We feel the same way! We hear it gets better with each lake. One thing I did not mention is that there was a pretty steady stream of seaplane traffic going in and out of Second Debsconeag. I'm not sure if that is the norm or not. I vaguely remember some planes from previous trips, but this time, that pilot was working his butt off in-and-out!
 
Dang, I thought I brought a ton of gear but you've got what looks to be a fully furnished house! I'm jealous! Very nice report and photos of an area I was quite close to a few weeks ago but that I didn't know about!
 
We feel the same way! We hear it gets better with each lake. One thing I did not mention is that there was a pretty steady stream of seaplane traffic going in and out of Second Debsconeag. I'm not sure if that is the norm or not. I vaguely remember some planes from previous trips, but this time, that pilot was working his butt off in-and-out!

Great trip report.

I did the loop with some friends last month, camping at Passamagamet and then 2nd Debbie. (Alas, we went beerless because of all the portaging.) I've never seen a seaplane on 2nd, but there are a couple of stashed boats at the campsite on the north side of the lake, and perhaps the fly-in folks use those.

One of these days I want to do a longer trip combining the Debsconeag loop with the Jo-Mary's and Turkey Tail. It would be easy to spend a week wandering through those lakes. Pemadumcook is a bit of a partyboat sanctuary but you'd only need to pass through it. 3rd Debsconeag to Lower Jo-Mary (or conversely) could be done in a day.
 
"I cooked up Ring of Sunshine, and we made a plan for the day over breakfast and coffee."

Wow, that looked really good, can you share the recipe?

Another great TR, Thanks for sharing. And of course the best looking glass to hit the big woods was a plus. Thanks
 
One of these days I want to do a longer trip combining the Debsconeag loop with the Jo-Mary's and Turkey Tail. It would be easy to spend a week wandering through those lakes. Pemadumcook is a bit of a partyboat sanctuary but you'd only need to pass through it. 3rd Debsconeag to Lower Jo-Mary (or conversely) could be done in a day.

OR you could go a little further and do the Allagash starting at Indian Stream, 7 days, 6 nights of easy paddling.
 
Dang, I thought I brought a ton of gear but you've got what looks to be a fully furnished house! I'm jealous! Very nice report and photos of an area I was quite close to a few weeks ago but that I didn't know about!

On these short trips with a big canoe, we tend to splurge for camp chairs, camp table and the cooler (beer & wine :) ) because...well...why not?! ;-) We always pack an Angler's Pint or two for marketing images in cool places, and the rest of the gear is just our regular kit. It's a nice area with easy access. For this type of trip, we may still prefer Lobster, but that's a longer drive, and, as you can see, we barely made it before dark to the put-in. Where were you? Canoeing?
 
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Great trip report.

I did the loop with some friends last month, camping at Passamagamet and then 2nd Debbie. (Alas, we went beerless because of all the portaging.) I've never seen a seaplane on 2nd, but there are a couple of stashed boats at the campsite on the north side of the lake, and perhaps the fly-in folks use those.

One of these days I want to do a longer trip combining the Debsconeag loop with the Jo-Mary's and Turkey Tail. It would be easy to spend a week wandering through those lakes. Pemadumcook is a bit of a partyboat sanctuary but you'd only need to pass through it. 3rd Debsconeag to Lower Jo-Mary (or conversely) could be done in a day.

Thanks for the info! We were surprised by all the seaplane traffic--maybe just a one-off thing. There was also a stashed canoe at the outlet of Second Debsconeag. I agree about a longer trip...I'll check out that trip report. Thanks for the link. It seems like one could do a nice little short loop in Lower Jo-Mary and Turkey, with a put-in/take-out at Turkey. I've not looked into campsites, but I vaguely recall someone telling me there was a nice one with a big beach on the north shore of Lower M-J.
 
"I cooked up Ring of Sunshine, and we made a plan for the day over breakfast and coffee."

Wow, that looked really good, can you share the recipe?

Another great TR, Thanks for sharing. And of course the best looking glass to hit the big woods was a plus. Thanks

You are kind! I can't believe we've now released 10 Angler's Pint designs, with two more planned before Christmas. It keeps us busy, as we put hands on each and every one in our barn here on the coast of Maine! :)

Ring of Sunshine has been part of my side-country/river trip menu for more than 20 years now, and it's a bit of a tradition for my wife and me! It's nothing terribly special or difficult. Fry some thinly-sliced potatoes with onion, garlic and peppers (we had a bumper crop of pablanos this year, so I packed a couple). When those are just about done, clear the center of the fry pan (and I should note this is a Banks Fry Bake pan, which I can't imagine not having on just about any trip in the backcountry!) and crack a couple eggs (we raise ducks and prefer ducks eggs--hence the yellow color). Scramble them, and then add thinly sliced cheese around the edges on top of the hashbrowns. Clear a little spot on the side of the pan and pour in a dash of water and then quickly put the lid on and remove the fan from the stove. Let it sit 5 minutes, and, if you have it, add some salsa. Ring of Sunshine is served! :)
 
Gorgeous scenery! Do duck eggs taste different from chicken eggs?

That's a great question. We think they are better, but it's all we eat now. :) Some people say they are richer, and that's probably true. The yolk-to-whites ratio is stunning (big yolks). Some folks only bake with them, but we use them for everything. I've not served them to a house guest who has not liked them yet!
 
On these short trips with a big canoe, we tend to splurge for camp chairs, camp table and the cooler (beer & wine :) ) because...well...why not?! ;-) We always pack an Angler's Pint or two for marketing images in cool places, and the rest of the gear is just our regular kit. It's a nice area with easy access. For this type of trip, we may still prefer Lobster, but that's a longer drive, and, as you can see, we barely made it before dark to the put-in. Where were you? Canoeing?
We just did Lobster Lake to Chesuncook.
 
Nice pictures and write up. A couple of years ago one of my sons and grandsons and I camped at the site on 1st Debsconeag. They fished and I just sat around. Later we walked the trail to 2nd Debsconeag. Carrying a Tripper would be a challenge. Earlier my Wife and I did a trip to Middle and Lower Jo Mary, which was very beautiful. It's a great area and I have thought about a loop trip from Middle Jo Mary to the Debsconeags and down the Penobscot through Ambajejus and Pemadumcook and back to Middle Jo Mary. I don't know anything about a trail from Lower Jo Mary to Pemadumcook though and if there is a portage from the Penobscot to Ambajejus.

Your last report about Scraggly Lake (North) was very good and looks like another adventure for my Wife and me. Long drive from Windham, Maine though. Thanks for the really enjoyable reports.
 
Bob there is a campground on Pocumcus at Ellesmere Landing
Its about a four hour drive from my house.
No longer than Millinocket
Some years back I did a three night solo from there to Scraggly and back

or do I have the wrong Scraggly?
 
Bob there is a campground on Pocumcus at Ellesmere Landing
Its about a four hour drive from my house.
No longer than Millinocket
Some years back I did a three night solo from there to Scraggly and back

or do I have the wrong Scraggly?

That's the "other" Scraggly, I think.
 
It's a great area and I have thought about a loop trip from Middle Jo Mary to the Debsconeags and down the Penobscot through Ambajejus and Pemadumcook and back to Middle Jo Mary. I don't know anything about a trail from Lower Jo Mary to Pemadumcook though and if there is a portage from the Penobscot to Ambajejus.

We have done the Debsconeag loop a few times putting in at Ambajejus Lake at the dam, traveling west up Pemadumcook, carrying into 3rd Debs, 2nd and 1st, and then running down the West Branch back into Ambajejus Lake to finish up. We even did that trip in reverse once going up the Penobscot, but I don't recommend that :(. All these trips were done in W&C.

We were wind and storm bound once on White Horse Island in Pemadumcook near the outlet of Lower Jo Mary Lake. You can easily carry from Lower Jo Mary into Pemadumcook (you might need to clear some brush). There is a shoot there too that might be run-able, but the water was a bit too high the day we were there for comfort.
 
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