Blue barrel folding tabletop Mark 2.0

[Guest]

Lookie what Mr. Postman done brought me; two 10 inch x 20 inch pieces of kevlar covered foam.

Even without the squared circle excess cut away those two pieces together weigh 11 oz. I see a folding 30L tabletop that weighs less than 1lb. That is some ultra light weight and uber stiff material, only 3/8 inch thick

Yeah man! I can't wait to see the results! I was pondering the idea of a foam and fiberglass wannigan a while back but the price was way too much!

What kind of foam is in the middle of that sandwich? Something a person could purchase at a big box store?

I have no idea what kind of foam is in that kevlar sandwich, it came from a friend in the canoe business. The foam core itself is incredibly stiff, I can’t dent the foam on the raw edges with my finger nail and it takes considerable pressure to make a dent with a screwdriver.

Finished results will be a while. I need to thoroughly think this one through before I do anything rash.

I have already screwed the pooch once with that kevlar foam board. While discussing the possibility of a UL foam board tabletop I mentioned that two pieces, each 10 x 20 inches, would be “perfect”, confident that I could cut them to the squared circle shape for the 30L

The as-is edges are cut so cleanly that I really don’t want to cut it again, especially without a scrap piece to experiment on, and I’m not sure what I would use to cut thick kevlar laminated to foam without a resulting ragged mess, so it’ll be a hinged 20 inch square (with cautionary corners). In that guise it will sadly not fit inside the 30L blue barrel; I shoulda said 9 x 20

Some thoughts, questions and requests for advice on using that kevlar/foam as a tabletop, with the caveat that at 11 oz I’d like to keep any added weight to a minimum.

Both surfaces are rough textured, so the unaltered bottom should grip the minicel covered lid, but the “countertop” side will need at least a coat of epoxy and some UV protective spar urethane topcoat to make a cleanable smooth surface.

Just epoxy and urethane? Or some light S-glass, epoxy (and peel ply) before top coat? That glass layer on top would not add much weight if I’m going to epoxy the top anyway. If I add cloth I could pigment the epoxy.

The edges of those cut out pieces are exposed/untreated foam core. I’m not sure if a couple coats of epoxy would be enough to protect the foam core from abuse. The “hinged” together butt ends which provide the horizontal stiffness are a stress smush concern, and the perimeter edges are likely to see storage and transport abuse, especially since it won’t fit in the barrel. Note to self: Measure first next time.

I’m thinking some very thin 3/8 wide wood “trim” would be best, glued along those edges and epoxied/varnished over when I do the tops. Oh, look, wood gunwales on a kevlar tabletop!

Or some thin plastic strips glued on. With a poopy brown faux wood finish applied just for Brad. Those raw edges need something protective. Ideas?

Hinges? I am seriously thinking that a simple piece of high quality duct tape along the center seam after the epoxy and top coat would be enough. That would weigh nothing, and could be easily replaced if it wore out or didn’t work.

Maybe no bottom ring, just leave the rough texture for grip on the minicel barrel lid. “Maybe” because after putting the tops on a dozen times in the shop I have begun to see more and more sense in having that centering ring for ease of install.

Velcro strap attachments? I’m thinking a small machine screw through the foam board on each side, with fender washer top and bottom and nylocks.

Less than 1 lb seems within reach.

 

[Alan Gage]

Those raw edges need something protective.

The foam core itself is incredibly stiff, I can’t dent the foam on the raw edges with my finger nail and it takes considerable pressure to make a dent with a screwdriver.

Sounds like some pretty tough stuff. Probably similar to the foam samples that found their way into my hands via Jim via Stripperguy. I wouldn't bother adding protection to the edges other than a couple coats of epoxy. At most I'd do 1" wide strips of fiberglass and trim them flush top/bottom when cured.

but the “countertop” side will need at least a coat of epoxy and some UV protective spar urethane topcoat to make a cleanable smooth surface.
Just epoxy and urethane? Or some light S-glass, epoxy (and peel ply) before top coat? That glass layer on top would not add much weight if I’m going to epoxy the top anyway. If I add cloth I could pigment the epoxy.

What exactly do you do with these little table tops, hop on top and dance a little jig? I'm assuming the heavier items are normally kept to the center of the table top anyway, which is fully supported by the barrel. And even if not it doesn't seem like very much is hanging unsupported over the edge. Look at the thickness of your canoe and the punishment it handles.

If you need a smooth surface for cleaning I'd say epoxy (maybe first coat thickened and squeegeed on to fill the weave quickly) and then spray paint with fancy farmer-sexual graphics.

The duct tape hinge sounds like a good test and if it doesn't work no harm done, just move onto plan B. I also wonder about epoxying grosgrain ribbon to the table top. You can get it in 3-4" widths. It's thin and strong. Same sort of stuff Dan@CCS uses for edging and loops on his tarps. Narrower loops epoxied to the bottom would be a place to tie off the velcro.

Alan

 

[Alan Gage]

Have you tried cutting the panels with a sharp (new) razor blade?

Alan

 

[southcove]

...following this along as I re-think a bit my own wannigan based folding table -held on securely at one end w flat nylon straps and a buckle. And a less than totally successful piano hinge like arrangement to keep the two sides in close proximity.

Alan, could you either provide further explanation to the comment, 'farmer-sexual graphics', or better yet, provide a pic of a good example ...I need to refinish the top on my creation as well.

 

[Alan Gage]

Alan, could you either provide further explanation to the comment, 'farmer-sexual graphics', or better yet, provide a pic of a good example ...I need to refinish the top on my creation as well.

It looks like this:



Notice the overalls, shaggy beard, crusty hat, hip shovel decorations, and hot chicks with sharp cutting tools.

Alan

 

[deerfly]

reminds me of some old Hee Haw episodes only here the props are real.

A few of these girls need some hot pants cut from old Levi's for a little more authentic look tho...

 

[latremorej]

It looks like this:



Notice the overalls, shaggy beard, crusty hat, hip shovel decorations, and hot chicks with sharp cutting tools.

Alan

And the shoes are out of place with overalls! Lol

 

[southcove]

LOL, I feel like I walked right into that one...the gun was loaded, just waiting for some wise guy to ask... but I am glad I did.

With a shop full of helpful characters like that, I am surprised you ever bother leaving to do any real work... (well minus the guy in the chair, he reminds me all too much of the dudes who tend to fill out the corners of my own shop...). I might just be displaying my pending old age or maleness, but for what it's worth - NICE!

 

[Guest]

I will be forever bummed about that photo quality. The camera had been set to “Close up” and that was the least worst of several blurry shots.

I may someday gather another shop full of young ladies (although my Craigslist add is going nowhere), but a couple of the vintage axes, the WWII Collins Legitimus machete and the 1918 Bolo have all found new homes. The Farmersexual shovel too.

 

[Odyssey]

Don't distress over the picture quality IMO, just adjust it to B&W. Instant classic. heck, it might even be historical. (If you ignore the extension electrical cords. You could photoshop those out.)

 

[Guest]

And the shoes are out of place with overalls! Lol

The heck you say. Real Farmersexual geezers know that nothing turns the ladies on like a pair of Crocs. Especially if they are covered with some red spray paint mist.

Bonus points for after-spraying polka dot feet, the ladies love them some polka dots. And bright shiny glitter.

 

[Alan Gage]

The original thread for those who missed it a couple years ago: http://www.canoetripping.net/forums/forum/general-paddling-discussions/diy/28222-full-farmersexual

You'll see that Mike was called out on his Crocs in that thread too.

I think the whole thing started when Glenn began a "which axe is best" thread and somewhere in the ensuing chaos we got to talking about the new Lumersexual trend and how fancy painted axes were selling for $300 in Brooklyn. Someone got the bright idea that we should get ahead of a curve and start a Farmersexual movement. Mike is our spokesman. A far as I know he's the only one who has had any success.

Alan

 

[Odyssey]

Someone got the bright idea that we should get ahead of a curve and start a Farmersexual movement. Mike is our spokesman. A far as I know he's the only one who has had any success.

Alan

Which reminds me, has every one paid their dues?

Don't forget our Thursday night keynote speaker (who shall remain anonymous, as he hasn't come out of the toolshed so to speak) leading a thoughtful and rousing discussion "Which handle colours look best with this denim?" Kale chips and coffee to follow.

Brother Michael asks you don't park on the lawn. His naturist mixed lawn bowling league have only just rolled out the winter wheel ruts. And they don't use a lawn roller. You should see their calluses and grass stains.
Still room for sign ups, members only. Bring your crocs, SPF 35 and picnic blanket.



Last weekend I went out for a stag party. I'm feeling too old and grouchy for such things but was dragged off anyway. Offering to pay for the pizza and beer might've had something to do with that. Excellent pizza and beer by the way, in a hole in the wall dive type hangout on an up and coming street favoured by artsy people. Works for me. But we went out to a ...wait for it...axe throwing party. No, it wasn't in a buddy's back yard. It was here https://badaxethrowing.com/
Kinda like darts only manlier. Even the women there were manlier than some of us. (lol ) Anyway, I did my best to sneer and snigger at it all before my sons threw me in the truck and hauled my arse down there. It was fun. Lotsa sharp edges, beards and boasting. I hit a few bulls eyes too! Two of my grandsons took part, and naturally loved it. Only wish my two granddaughters could've skipped the ladies' backyard picnic. They would've loved throwing axes and besting their brothers.
In my dissing of faux farmer fetishes my sons asked me "What the heck is a farmersexual? And what the heck is a lumbersexual!?"
Oh where do I begin?

 

[Guest]

At most I'd do 1" wide strips of fiberglass and trim them flush top/bottom when cured.


The duct tape hinge sounds like a good test and if it doesn't work no harm done, just move onto plan B. I also wonder about epoxying grosgrain ribbon to the table top. You can get it in 3-4" widths. It's thin and strong. Same sort of stuff Dan@CCS uses for edging and loops on his tarps. Narrower loops epoxied to the bottom would be a place to tie off the velcro.

Alan, I’m thinking on those suggestions. Those top are so easy to make that I have a few more birch plywood Everyman Builds in my future to experiment with.

I’m going to try ¼ birch plywood next. I like the “strips of fiberglass” idea as stiffeners and have rolls of fiberglass tape, so I don’t even have to cut strips and deal with long edge frays. Maybe laid just across the bottom, with the top side simply epoxied and urethaned. I might not even peel ply those bottom E-glass tapes; the rough texture should grip the minicel on my barrel tops nicely.

Simpler and simpler perhaps.

It’s worth picking up a 2x4 foot sheet of ¼ birch plywood to perfect the 30L and 60L designs. They are already getting better and I should have no trouble giving those experiments away.

I’ll probably use the E-glass tapes I have as “stiffeners” on the tabletop bottoms.

 

[Guest]

Sounds like some pretty tough stuff. Probably similar to the foam samples that found their way into my hands via Jim via Stripperguy. I wouldn't bother adding protection to the edges other than a couple coats of epoxy. At most I'd do 1" wide strips of fiberglass and trim them flush top/bottom when cured.

OK, the idea of me constructing something with an ultra-light objective is absurd, but what the heck. I trimmed some thin wood strips as edge protection and then figured nah, let’s see how low I can go. The edge protection can always be added later if need be.

I wanted some increased depth on the bottom of the tabletop at the hinged edges that butt together off the barrel lid, so the unfolded halves would seat together more assuredly level, and added ½ inch square wood pieces for thicker butt ends. I tapered the outside edge of those little pieces to eliminate the exposed right angle corner.



Ultra-light. You want ultra-light? I got yer ultra-light right heyaa. This may have been a too-UL mistake, but I used balsa covered with multiple coats of epoxy. I’m sure I weight-saved at least a small sip of ale.

One rolled and tipped coat of epoxy on the bottom, two on the top to help fill the rough kevlar weave, three coats on the left-unprotected and exposed foam edges and butt edge balsa stiffeners.

I did a nice smooth job with the epoxy coats, but the kevlar edges are sharp as a raspy razor. Some careful sanding was in order, bearing in mind that kevlar fuzzes. The thin strips of wood veneer would have been simplier and may yet be added at a later point, if only for some wood grain attractiveness.

Some judicious 320 sanding knocked off the sharp epoxy edges without fuzzing the kevlar. The exposed foam and even balsa wood stiffeners are all 3-coats of epoxy impregnated stiff, so there’s that.

Washed and rinsed and alcohol wiped (I am loving the shop spray bottles of water, soapy water and alcohol, no more running around with bucket and hose, or glumping out way more alcohol than I need. Pffssttt, pffssttt, pffssttt and done).

One coat of Helmsman Spar Urethane on the top and bottom, two on the edges. No Farmersexual graphics; I’ll save those for the ¼ birch plywood models.

No brag, but my foam roller and tip out technique is getting to be pretty good. If it takes 10,000 hours to master something I only have another 9,500 hours to go.

Gorilla tape hinge, 3 layers, one up the middle and two offset, razor sliced neatly off the edge. Time will tell about that hinge technique, and like everything else it can be replaced at will.



I did weight splurge on the Velcro connection and went mechanical, using 1/8[SUP]th[/SUP] inch machine screws with washers and nylocks. There is some pull-down tension on that Velcro and I’ll trade the little bump atop the table for surety of attachment.

The duct tape hinge sounds like a good test and if it doesn't work no harm done, just move onto plan B.

Yup, I have plans B, C & D in mind if the duct tape hinge proves unsatisfactory, if the balsa crumbles, or the foam edges need additional protection. But I think I’m only getting this one shot at make an uber UL tabletop and might as well go for broke.

Less than 1 lb seems within reach.

So close. Finished weight tale of the scale, 1 lb 2 oz. Woo hoo, I save the weight equivalent of 2 cans of beer over the ½ inch birch plywood. I might have achieved less than a pound if I’d used only one coat of epoxy. . . . .

Tabletop size 400 square inches of surface, vs 78.5 sq in for a naked barrel top. Five times the working surface.

Belly up boys, the bar is open for business.



Now I’m looking forward to making the ¼ inch birch plywood versions. I’m thinking a checker board/pente board painted on the top of a 30L, and I need to make a 60L top for a friend who plays and writes music; maybe a blank music sheet design and a grease pencil for that one.

https://www.google.com/search?q=bla...&ei=RANMWcX-EMW0-QHMnqxo#imgrc=OEdy6QDsFJpf2M:

Ideas for a game board, musician tabletop or etc appreciated. Maybe laminate a dry erase whiteboard on top.

 

[Odyssey]

I have a serious idea-proposal for the multi-use table top. How about a heavy duty clear film that can peel back and lay down over a map sheet? It would have to be compatible with say, grease pencils, and so easily cleaned afterwards.
Peel back the film, slip in a map, lay down the film and crack open a cold one...and ponder tomorrow's route options.

 

[Guest]

I have a serious idea-proposal for the multi-use table top. How about a heavy duty clear film that can peel back and lay down over a map sheet? It would have to be compatible with say, grease pencils, and so easily cleaned afterwards.
Peel back the film, slip in a map, lay down the film and crack open a cold one...and ponder tomorrow's route options.

Thin sheet of plexiglass hinged on one side maybe?

BTW, I needed that 18 year old Jameson to get the taste of the Fireball out of my memory.

 

[Sven]

Cribbage/checkers/chess

Might require some patience and a couple beers to drill all this tiny holes...