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Lock points

Joined
Oct 26, 2022
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Location
North Carolina
I need a lock point on my tandem with wooden gunnels. I just need something to deter opportunistic theft while setting shuttle, hiking, etc. I'm curious what others here have done.

I have a tandem with aluminum gunwales. On one carry handle I installed an aluminum plate (just a strip) underneath. It is riveted in so it would have to be beaten or hacksawed through. It works well enough but it doesn't feel like a handle anymore because it's cold on the bottom.

If there are no better suggestions I'll do the same thing but with stainless and stainless screws. Maybe this time I'll split the handle and sandwich the metal in, like a knife handle.

Suggestions?
 
My Nova Craft Bob Special came from the factory with eyebolts on each stem. I think all their canoes do.

2021-03-18-canoe-Heap-0006.jpg

I also have a set of long cables that intertwine and tighten around the outside of the hull about three feet back from the bow and stern, such that the canoe can't be moved back or forth, which attach to the car racks. Sort of like THIS. Of course, any cable can be cut and racks sawed off, but the thief would have to have the right tools.
 
I used a two-loop harness like that back in college when my canoe lived on top of the Jeep. It was made from chain. Worked fine, just heavy. It was appropriate for leaving the canoe in a remote parking lot.

I carry a 6 ft bike cable to lock through the reinforced handle. I also have a short dog choke collar that can be used to secure the paddle. Good enough to keep kids from walking off with stuff.

I hadn't considered an eye bolt. This is for a Mad River with a hole-mounted painter loop. I could replace the loop with cable. Hmm. Would probably weigh more than a reinforced handle. Anything but stainless would rust after the first coastal trip

I see titanium wire isn't crazy expensive. A painter loop made from titanium cable would be pretty cool.
 
I just use "real" 4mm aircraft cable (not the hardware stuff you can cut with snips) and loop it through the handles seats and thwarts, I think nothing will truly deter anyone for long, but the idea is to make it loud and noticeable enough to make them leave, not to mention there's not much quick value in a boat with all the outfitting cut....
 
I use this on my dinghy at a public dock. It goes through the seat, securing the oars and has a bike cable to the dock cleat.
 
I'm completed the handle.

The first picture is the donor grill tongs. I wanted to use stainless steel because I paddle in salt water and have stainless steel screws. Hopefully this will prevent galvanic corrosion.PXL_20230415_183639470.jpg
Here are the three pieces prior to assembly. The stainless steel is isn't trivial to deal with. I cut it with a die grinder, and had to use the drill press for the holes. Working around the existing holes wasn't easy either. It's definitely too tough to easily cut with a wood saw.
PXL_20230415_182836871.jpg

I started by gluing everything together. I'd like rivet in the middle, like a knife handle, but don't have the tools and materials to do it in stainless. So glue will have to do.

The last picture is the assembled handle. After a few test uses I'll reassemble with thread lock then round out the screw slots.
PXL_20230416_140344815.jpg

This should provide a lock point that can't be removed quietly with normal tools without damaging the gunnels.
 
RW Rope has things that I didn’t know I wanted.
Thank you JohnSand.
Nice work on the handle too, MrPoling.
 
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Personally I wouldn't round out the bolts, there are security locking bolts available that take either a torx with a centre pin, or a split-tip slot driver, the bolts usually come with the proper driver tip.
 
I use a serious bike lock to tie canoe to the rack, which is also locked.

It never occurred to me someone would saw through a thwart.
 
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