• Happy Weed Appreciation Day! 🌱🌿🌻

First stripper build: Prospector-16 Help & comments appreciated

Location .

There are so many factors to consider.

If you know someone that has built the same hull ! They maybe your best source for seat location !

Here is a link to Bear Mountains Prospector Directory. You may find what you are seeking there.

Bear Mountain 16' Prospector Builds
 
Thanks Jim. I've explored the bearmountain build forum, didn't know they had a hole thread related to just the Prospector build. Very helpful.

On a side note, I'd like to include a bronze flush fair lead for tie-down like shown in this picture. Anyone have a source for these?
1665492587510.png
 
I've never used a flaring tool. I'm assuming you're using something like a spin flare? Do you have to cut the tube at an angle that matches the hull, so the flare is consistent? Maybe I'll get one and practice with it. If that doesn't work, I was thinking about getting a bronze pipe nipple, and machining the ends, and epoxying it in place.

Only way I could see flaring tubing with what I have is more of a block flare. Have to get at the back side of the tube. I suppose I could make two short flares, connect them with a fitting (without sweating), and epoxy all of it in place.
 
I'd like to include a bronze flush fair lead for tie-down like shown in this picture. Anyone have a source for these?

Rollin Thurlow sells silicon-bronze tubing, which he uses for hung seat spacers instead of wood dowels. I bought some from him to drop my Morris seat further, even though they are not shown on his price list.

 
You could just buy bronze bushings of the right diameter and connect them with some vinyl tubing or similar. Then use a file to shape the outside to your liking:


45-030_1.jpg
 
Well, I'm finally done, except for sanding, varnishing, and weaving the seats. Unfortunately, it looks like I'll be heating the garage to varnish. I used a 3/8" brass pipe nipple through the stems for a tie down. Thought I had a picture of it, but I guess not. I'll try to post a couple in the next day or so. Both seats are set at 9 1/2" off the bottom of the hull to the bottom of the drop.
IMG-2457.jpg
IMG-2459.jpg
IMG-2460.jpg
 
My shop was always marginally heated so I often had to get creative. Here is a set up I used for small gluing projects. Didn’t always use the heater, sometimes just a light build was enough to heat the enclosure. Hope it inspires.
D1E24025-5403-4D02-8CD0-6D76102DEF02.jpeg

0A4DB4B8-3ABD-419D-983D-04414435C318.jpeg

Jim
 
Finally had time, and heat to get the first coat of varnish on the inside. One electric space heater keeps my small work area 65-70 degrees. However, my small work area also collects varnish fumes rather quickly. As I wiped down with denatured alcohol, and varnished, I really started to notice a couple minor flaws. Two sharpie spots on the edge of the football layer. Oh, yeah. Jim warned me about that.

Then I started thinking about someones response to the question: "How long does it take"? Response compared it to golf. You don't time yourself on a round.....Same for building a canoe. Also like golf, canoe building inevitably leaves room for improvement next time. I certainly didn't hit a "hole in one" on this canoe shot, but overall, I'm happy with it. Hoping to get 3 coats on this weekend. Briefly toyed with the idea of creating some sort of hanging system tied into the tie-down rings, so I could varnish inside and out all in one go. Decided against it.

Should be able to get the second seat woven while I'm waiting between coats.

IMG_2489.jpg

IMG_2490.jpg
 
Well, I thought I was going to finish this weekend, but two rather disheartening set-backs. When I was doing final sanding on the inside, prior to varnishing, I noticed an area on the outside of the hull by the stem that I wasn't happy with. The edge of the bias strip was still noticeable to the eye and feel. I decided to sand, and skim with a light layer of epoxy in this area only. Looked great. Took about a week to get the inside varnished, 4 coats. Flipped it over, cleaned the outside, and started varnishing. After 3 coats, the area I had skimmed with epoxy started "gator skinning". It had cured for about a week, and I light sanded that area.

I decided to install seats & yoke, then flip it over, light sand the entire hull ( a little heavier sanding on the gator skin), then two more coats of varnish.

Problem #2. I wanted the look of brass hardware for seats & yoke. Went through McMaster-Carr, bought 1/4-20 brass button head for the yoke, 10-24 for the seats (high strength, 50K PSI tensile). I also bought threaded inserts for hardwood. Putting all fasteners in by hand, being extremely careful to not over tighten. First yoke screw went in fine. Second one, as soon as it got snug, the head sheared off. Upon inspection, there's only .020-.025" of material remaining between the socket recess, and the shaft of the screw. Now I have to rethink my fastener choice. Put the seats on hold until I decide on fasteners, because I want them to match.

What I thought was going to be a couple hours left to complete the canoe, turned into much more, and I'm no further along than I was before the weekend.
 
This where you take a deep breath, sometimes you need to take a step back, re assess and then move forward with a new plan. Bulling forward rarely yields what you want.

Sounds like you have the patience to keep it all on track to what you want.

Brian
 
Yeah ! That's Life.

Some times one step forward winds up being two back .

There is no such thing as a Perfect canoe !

Make things work, and get on the water .

Hang in there.

Seat looks a little tightly strung ! Once you apply varnish, it will shrink ! When stringing leave plenty of slack.

Wish I had a good pick to show !
 
Back
Top