Bead and cove is one of the best innovations to strip construction to come down the pike !
Bead and cove helps the beginner to produce professional results. It aids in splicing, creates a superior glue joint, and keeps the strips in line with each other.
With a simple router mounted on a table and two bead and cove bits you're in business.
Here is a trick I use to give uniformity to my strips. Most planks vary a little in thickness.Often by as much as an 1/8". To solve this discrepancy .
I run my strips BETWEEN the fence and the router bits. This insures they all come out the same. Lets say the 3/4" plank, that I'm cutting my strips from, has a thin spot of 5/8". I set the gap between the fence and bit at 5/8".
Cedar is soft enough that the bits have very little trouble handling this crowding. I WOULD NOT do this with hardwoods !
After the first pass, and by the way, cut the bead first ! Your strips will be uniform to 5/8".
Here is a pic of my setup.
These are cheap routers, that I've used to bead and cove strips for at least 30 canoes..
Bead and cove helps the beginner to produce professional results. It aids in splicing, creates a superior glue joint, and keeps the strips in line with each other.
With a simple router mounted on a table and two bead and cove bits you're in business.
Here is a trick I use to give uniformity to my strips. Most planks vary a little in thickness.Often by as much as an 1/8". To solve this discrepancy .
I run my strips BETWEEN the fence and the router bits. This insures they all come out the same. Lets say the 3/4" plank, that I'm cutting my strips from, has a thin spot of 5/8". I set the gap between the fence and bit at 5/8".
Cedar is soft enough that the bits have very little trouble handling this crowding. I WOULD NOT do this with hardwoods !
After the first pass, and by the way, cut the bead first ! Your strips will be uniform to 5/8".
Here is a pic of my setup.
These are cheap routers, that I've used to bead and cove strips for at least 30 canoes..