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If you are trying to fill holes, thickened epoxy isn't really a good tool. Consider setting up a little dam around the holely site and use unthickened to fill the holes, just fill the dam area and let it seep into the hole(s). keep the mixed epoxy spread out to maximize working time and keep...

That is exactly how I do it

This a 12' x 13' tarp, made from 1.1oz/yd silpoly, there is a pole at each end that gives the tarp body and creates a porch mode when the guys are lengthened. I've changed out the tarp suspension to have shock cords at all support points. The internal poles make the internal size enormous ...

Jim, I think you messed up the second link, it doesn't seem to go to the other JDs clamps.

Hey Roy, is that a Makita Skil?

Thinner strips are more flexible, lighter and arguably gives you more strips from a given piece of wood. You do take some loss in strength of the final composite, but IMO the standard 1/4" strip with 6 oz glass is already a bit of overkill in the suitability for task category and dropping to...

It's not just you with the band saw, regardless of how easy it sounds, you have to have a really well setup bandsaw and really know how to use to get decent strips .... and even with my limited experience I think it would be really slow going. If you decide to try the skilsaw, I recommend you...

Nice start from a fellow Ontarian. Where did you source your lumber, I am always on the look out for new suppliers

When you glass (or carbon, kevlar, etc.) a paddle, there are a couple things to consider. There is the weave finish and how much epoxy is used to bury the weave .... the consensus here, so far, more or less suggests that the paddle surface needs to be smooth, in fact the smoother the better...

Yup ... marveling that you made it and it floats, never gets old. Great job

When finishing a paddle, I like to leave the handle with just the oil finish. After the initial coat, I like to wet sand subsequent coats with 320 (apply oil and then sand using the oil), then 400 on any other coats. This will give a nice silky finish on the handle, that your hand will be able...

Cherry is one of my favourites

Have the MEC double walled steel mugs, which has been my go to for a long time. Thinking of swapping to my Yeti 20 oz as I like to laze a bit and enjoy the camp first thing in the morning.

My first cedar (WRC) came from a specialty supplier near me, it was beautiful, clear and quite expensive, even then that was $140 ... now I go to a very small yard up north of me, last canoe used $85 worth of perfect white cedar. There seems to be a lot of smaller mills today, the issue is...

"I don't want to spend the money on expensive or hard-to-find cedar/ash/mahogany/brass/copper/canvas/filler/whatever." One of the biggest challenges I faced when I first decided to build a canoe, was sourcing materials, especially wood. Finding good places to get those materials at a reasonable...

Very nicely done

I doubt he was making that shot ... a lot of the designs he hosted/sold were asymmetrical hulls

Perfect description, Use ours for storing bulk camp food and dried herbs.

I usually take a Double blade and a light bent shaft .... the bent shaft as a backup and for any short runs requiring greater finesse, the double to cover ground and handle bad weather

I did change a few things on this build, reduced the width of the ash spine from 1/8" to 3/32", to offset moving from 1 1/8" shaft diameters to 1 1/4". A bonus of going to the larger shaft was that I could use my router and a new 5/8" radius bit to round the shafts I stopped the rounding just...