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The Death of a Portage

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Location
Geraldton, Ontario
Maintaining canoe routes in my area of Northern Ontario is a non-stop job. Blowdown events, forest fires and logging keep route maintenance at a pretty high level.

I had planned an 8 day trip for the school club this year starting at Onaman Lake and returning to Geraldton, a total of about 150 kilometres. One of my buddies who had been ice fishing at Onaman told me to check with the Ministry of Natural Resources because he had seen a lot of cutting going on in the area. I contacted the MNR, and sure enough, the major 3 kilometre portage that connected Onaman Lake to Fullerton had been cut. I superimposed my GPS track from 2013 over the Sat image the Ministry sent me, and it looked grim.



My buddy Chainsaw Rob and I decided to go in on the Victoria day long weekend to see if the port was still viable. My wife Irene and I were going in by canoe and Rob and our other buddy Dan were going in a small boat. We left at 4:30 on Friday drove through a series of progressively deteriorating logging roads until we reached a trail beside the Kowkash River. We were packed heavy for comfort and had the 20 foot canoe.



It took a half hour to lug everything down to the water and we were paddling by 6:35. Rob and Dan had come in during the afternoon and were already at camp.


We had a leisurely paddle to Fullerton Lake, covering the ten k in about two hours. Got to camp at around 8:45 and started setting up. Brought an old Eureka Outfitter from the early 80’s out for this trip, still a good tent.



I also brought both of my new paddles. Just finished the skinny otter tail style one last week, painted it after something I saw on the inter-webs. I am somewhat loath to admit it, but I actually enjoyed paddling with that skinny little thing.



The new paddles are related.


Irene bought me this suitcase style cooking station for christmas last year. It’s really quite cool, not very heavy at all, and folds out into a huge working area. Never thought I would like things like that, but the older I get, the more I enjoy creature comforts.



If you look closely, you’ll see why I’m smiling. I’m slicing up a big chunk of Canadian bacon with the Ripster!



We had a great night, drinking Bud Lights under a full moon, and shooting the old Taurus feces. No fire though, as there is still a fire ban on across most of Northern Ontario.

In the morning, we piled into Rob’'s 14 foot boat with an 8 horse, and boated the short distance over to the portage.



The first 660 meters of this three kilometre port is still intact. It is a fairly awful affair, full of mud holes, a typical northern Ontario cedar swamp port.



When we got to the end of this stage, the sight that greeted us was quite disheartening.



To add some scale.

We clambered through the cutover and arrived at the top. The first view was not bad. If there was a major road system like this to the other end, we could probably make something of the cut over approach.



However, it soon degraded into the typical skid way, full of stumps and stickers, just waiting for someone to fall and be impaled.


This is a pretty typical view of a cutover. The amount of wood that is wasted is fairly shocking.


There was a big raptor nest in the middle of the cutover. Hopefully, it is a new one, as logging operations are supposed to give a one mile buffer on all raptor nests.


We located the other end of the port and tried to hack some kind of trail through the cut.


This is us walking back up to the skid way from the other end of the port.


On the three kilometre walk back to the boat, I decided that we would probably never use this port again. Sections of it were full of stumps and sharp hunks of wood that will continue to surface for years. They are an impalement accident waiting to happen. As well, there is absolutely no tree cover for two K, so taking a bunch of kids over on a hot day would probably result in heat stroke. The port was always challenging, but it was never dangerous.

We got back to camp at around two in the afternoon, and I decided to recline and watch some nature TV.



We all did some fishing afterwards, but Fullerton Lake, although big and beautiful, seems to be only a pike lake. Everyone was fairy tired tonight, so by 11:00 PM we were crashed out, watching the moon rise over us.


I Looks like the Outers Club will be reverting to plan B again. I’m going to drive up the Ogoki road tomorrow to see if a bus can get to the Kapikotongwa Bridge.


Edited to add a shot of this same port from 2013 when we went through. This high sandy ridge was a pounded down caribou trail. Now it's just pounded down. This would have been right around the shot of the skidway with all the stumps in it.

 
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God dang it eh.We were out this weekend too and MB Hydro is putting in a station in Manigotagan. A massive affair with huge cutlines. Looks like it will be headed north alongside the road.

I do like that foldout kitchen you have, very spiffy.
Too bad about the pike...we ended up having to catch pickerel again.
 
Sorry about the cut Mem, I have that same kitchen setup. It works great. Northerns are good eating too! So long as you catch em longer than 20" or so. After some practice, the y bones come out fairly easy enough.

Jason
 
Nice picture TR, really enjoyed that. As you know from our conversations, I wasn't aware of what a clear cut does to a portage and your story does a good job of showing what happens in a clear cut and the effects to the trail.
Question, Have you ever seen a portage protected during a logging operation? I assume that they can't cut right up to the shoreline of lakes and rivers, but if a well used trail wonders into the free fire zone is it fair game?
Is there anyone in government who is supposed to be the "portage" advocate?
 
Great trip report memquay. A good look at another aspect of canoe tripping and a troubling issue. It's really disheartening to see a portage clear cut like that.
On the brighter side, I'm really impressed with your new kitchen. The old one was a knife, a chair and a stump. So long as Stabby can still cut bacon, it's all good.
(Beautiful work on those paddles.) Can't beat nature TV.
 
Question, Have you ever seen a portage protected during a logging operation? I assume that they can't cut right up to the shoreline of lakes and rivers, but if a well used trail wonders into the free fire zone is it fair game?
Is there anyone in government who is supposed to be the "portage" advocate?

Well, if we were sitting by a campfire, I'd ask "How long have you got?", because it's a long explanation. Basically, canoe routes are values that MNR enters onto its maps. Values are usually afforded some kind of protection with forestry plans. For instance, on an identified canoe route, there is usually a buffer along waterways that prevents cutting right to the waters edge. The buffer used to be 30 meters from the first woody growth, which was really unacceptable. However, I think it was recently changed to 120 meters. Most ports on rivers fall into the 120 meter buffer, so they are automatically protected. Identified campsites also receive a 100 meter buffer. It's the in-between lake ports that have always presented a problem. We have lost over a dozen of these to cutting in the last 25 years.

Here's the problem, as seen from both sides:
One the one hand, you have a 3 kilometer port that might only get used three or four times a decade by a group of high school kids. It does have a long cultural history dating back thousands of years, and is an integral habitat for a small caribou herd, that is in steady decline. On the other hand, you have many thousands of dollars worth of wood that can be extracted fairly easily, within 50 kilometers of a major highway, providing employment to local forest workers.

I have asked several times if a buffer could be left on both sides of the port, but the answer is always that it would be too expensive, too much harvestable wood would be wasted (left standing).

In the past, the logging companies would at least contact us when they were cutting these ports, so we would have a heads up. Now that kind of intel is left to ice fishermen.

Anyway, gotta get ready to take off for the Kap bridge. I heard a rumour that they were going to reopen the Ogoki Forest plan, and that they were re-doing the Ogoki road - that's the double edge sword - the road allows for more access to canoe country, but the cutting often impacts on canoe routes. As usual in life, there is no black and white answer.
 
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Thanks. I'm all for using the trees, and I get that point about the in-between lakes portages being to expensive to protect from the loggers point of view, and I wish I was sitting around a campfire to ear the rest of the story.

Now for the important stuff, the knife does look good in action, nice new hat too. and something about slab bacon that brings out a smile to old Memaquay's mug.Nice kitchen set up for that type of camping, looks like everything is easy to find.

The paddles look nice, nicely done with the paint and names.
 
We ran across something like that one year on a hike, lost a bunch of time trying to find where the trail continues. Sad that they don't chip all the small stuff up for the pulp mills or even to aid decomposition. Don't know too much about forestry so may not be logical. As a trip leader I like how you noted a trip can be challenging but not dangerous. Nice distinction.
 
Drove up the Ogoki yesterday, saw seven bears, one moose, bunch of bunnies. Road to the Kap Bridge is good, no washouts, some rough spots. Karin and Chistine, Chainsaw Rob and I are working on developing a secret access to Faubert. We will know more by end of June, as Outers will now be going in for spring trip, Marshall to Kap bridge.
 
Secrets don't last, like our secret hidey hole the Rice River which was inundated with outboard powered canoes on the weekend. You best check the fishing in there before doing too much work.
 
Is this the first time the trees around that portage have been harvested? If not what happened the first time? Did they spare the trees around the portage or was it reestablished after the stumps rotted and live trees reclaimed the area?

Alan
 
This is the first time for that port. We have had some ports that have been harvested twice in the last 47 years. The length of this port probably precludes it from being re-established in ten or twenty years, but my buddy, Chainsaw Rob, says he refuses to give up on it. He claims he will use it again. I'm doubtful we'll live that long, or have the energy to re-establish it when we're in our 70's.
 
That port has been there as long as the Anishinaabe people have been here. It was the key port for connecting several routes in the area. Those values are not given much weight in MNR decisions.
 
I already know how to access Faubert. After a late night partying in town you put in at Marshall L and paddle and carry to here:
P8111191.JPG

where you get out and push your canoe upstream. Not far, just a couple miles or so.
The water is only 2 inches deep, but the mucky bottom goes down forever...
 
Ha ha, ya Paul, Faubert is the headwaters of the Kap, you would have passed the turnoff shortly after leaving the campsite at the falls. I had some stellar news this week. I met with the Forest Management planner for two of the huge plans up here. She was very keen on saving established portages, and has offered to help us create a new one out of Onaman. One of her workers is flagging it off now, comes in at slightly over 2 K, which is a kilometer shorter than the old one. She took all my GPS data and will be entering it into the government systems. It's the first time I have seen this level of commitment from a logging company, it's kind of like winning the lottery. Now I just have to cover as many routes in the Nipigon and Kenogami forest plans as I can and properly record them. Think there is only about 1.8 million hectares in the Kenogami plan, shouldn't take too long. Happy days!
 
Odyssey that sounds like an awesome way to spend a day...

Memaquay great news about the forestry company and their willingness to help preserve the portages. It was hard looking at what was left of the old one. I know it is a necessary evil and I sure kill my fair share of trees here at school but man that is ugly! It was good to hear that you are planning on running part of the Marshall loop this year, the ports will be nice and clear when I get there in July!
 
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