strip built canoe - first strip orientation

[Patrick Corry]

I have a question for the experienced strip builders. So, having begun the process of considering a solo tripping canoe project, I'm wondering about orienting the first strip: parallel to the waterline or installed with 'some' curvature (but not following the sheer completely). Aesthetic as well as practical concerns are both in play here.

I'm wondering what effect there may be on the stripping process if I install parallel to the waterline. Will the shape of the "football" in the bottom of the canoe be odd-looking? Will the strips acquire some strange curve where they intersect the bottom of the stem area (although I'm planning on going stemless)?

In the event that the hull shape makes a difference here, I'm considering several designs: the Winters kite/osprey; the Kunz 38 Special (thanks to Jim Dodd's glamorous photos on his posts!); or the Northwest Merlin; the Bear Mountain Freedom solo for example(s).

I do know that wooden boats of all types benefit visually from the sweep of the sheer line, but aesthetically does a 'competing' strip line detract from this? I have no plans for any accent striping other than perhaps placing relatively darker strips as each strip nears the bottom- in other words, light color at the sheer progressing to darker at the bottom.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Pat

 

[stripperguy]

I generally prefer to start my strips at the design waterline
taking care to be sure that strip is straight

Depending on the hull design, starting at the sheer line can result in a funky football especially if there’s a lot of rise near the stems

Having said that, if you’re planning on a Kite/osprey you MUST start at the crease

 

[memaquay]

On a canoe such as the Osprey, I would follow the sheer. Canoes with a large rise in sheer....I usually put the first strip in at the gunwale line and then follow one on top straight across, level to the floor, and then fill in the gap. Kinda like the bow on the canoe below.

 

[alsg]

I only have built one and followed the sheer with the first strip and every strip after. I like the look and the football wasn't hard.

 

[Jim Dodd]

I've built all my canoes using the same method as alsg, except one. Following the shearline worked for me.

The design really dictates where you start. Those with a high recurved Bow or stern, are Stair stepped like Mem's pick

 

[Cruiser]

I like to run parallel to the waterline, start at the sheer amidships and keep it level to the Bow/Stern. Once you close the football, go back and use filler strips as described in CanoeCraft ...

If your boat has very little rise it doesn't make much difference, as following the sheer will be about parallel anyway.

I like the look created by the strips running parallel to the water and find that when they rise too much it is off-putting .... the only time issues will arise is when the sheer line sweeps up very much, it look awful IMO and the stripping becomes very (if not impossible) to execute ...

So the short of it is that for the most part it is a personal choice, with few if any consequences ...UNLESS you are dealing with a model that has a lot of up sweep, in which case you will need to arbitrarily flatten the strip line and use a filler strips in some fashion.

Brrian

 

[dogbrain]

On newer design boats with a flatter sheer I would start at the sheer. Like stripper guy said, the kite requires it, but I would also do it with the Merlin. Older designs with upswept ends like the pal would be difficult to do that, but i would start with some rise in the ends.

That being said, cove up or cove down?

mark

 

[Patrick Corry]

All valuable comments. Thanks gents.

As to the cove up/ cove down question, I am thinking cove up until the turn of the hull at which point I would install a strip with beads on both edges, effectively changing to bead “up”. At that point, strips which have been dry fit can be placed cove up in notched holders to receive glue, then transferred into place on the hull.

 

[dogbrain]

That’s how I did my last build Patrick. I thought it worked well.

Mark

 

[Jim Dodd]

I go cove up all the way. It's less messy ! The glue won't run out of the cove, if you simply tip your strongback, when you get to the bilge.



Mark, a tall club member fitting strips. This works even better, for the shorter guys. The cardboard makes it a lot more comfortable,and easy to clean up.

 

[memaquay]

I like that tipping idea Jim, I'll see if I can make it work on this build.

 

[Alan Gage]

As you're finding out everyone does it differently and everyone gets good results.

When I still used bead and cove I'd finally switched to cove down. I found it cleaner and easier and if you need to press down on a strip by hand or with a strap you're pressing on the strong bead rather than the weak edges of the cove. It's so fast to apply glue to a loose strip that I don't see the speed advantage of cove up. I've done it both ways multiple times.

I since switched to square edge and won't likely go back.

Alan