Well, I finally got around to putting the webbing on the seats from the tandem/solo Dagger Reflection 15. I used 1-1/2" polyester cargo strap webbing as it is not too slick and I could get it in green and black (the canoe is green) for a reasonable price from:
https://customtiedowns.com/customtiedowns.com.
My regular manual staple gun worked fine with 5/16" stainless staples as long as I kept heavy pressure on the end of the gun. The few staples that didn't seat all the way got helped along with a small hammer. The ash seat frames had the old cane panels cut out, the groove cane pared flush with a sharp chisel and the original side turned down. The frames, thwart and carry handles along with the seat drop dowels got cleaned, sanded and hit with three coats of spar urethane. I used a pair of twisted pipe cleaners to get the urethane in the screw holes of the dowels and really saturate them. In addition to the usual really thin original finish on the seats, carry handles and thwart the dowels weren't even finished from the factory so they had some water staining I couldn't fully remove.
Here's the center and rear seats:
I have a roll of 3/4" polyester webbing to add loop tie-down points under the washers and nuts when I reinstall everything. I may need to order longer screws as some of them may be marginal in length when I add the tie-down loops but McMaster-Carr has a good selection of stainless lock nuts, flat head screws in a lot of lengths, finish (countersunk) washers and several widths of wider washers to better grip the loops.
Best regards to all,
Lance
https://customtiedowns.com/customtiedowns.com.
My regular manual staple gun worked fine with 5/16" stainless staples as long as I kept heavy pressure on the end of the gun. The few staples that didn't seat all the way got helped along with a small hammer. The ash seat frames had the old cane panels cut out, the groove cane pared flush with a sharp chisel and the original side turned down. The frames, thwart and carry handles along with the seat drop dowels got cleaned, sanded and hit with three coats of spar urethane. I used a pair of twisted pipe cleaners to get the urethane in the screw holes of the dowels and really saturate them. In addition to the usual really thin original finish on the seats, carry handles and thwart the dowels weren't even finished from the factory so they had some water staining I couldn't fully remove.
Here's the center and rear seats:
I have a roll of 3/4" polyester webbing to add loop tie-down points under the washers and nuts when I reinstall everything. I may need to order longer screws as some of them may be marginal in length when I add the tie-down loops but McMaster-Carr has a good selection of stainless lock nuts, flat head screws in a lot of lengths, finish (countersunk) washers and several widths of wider washers to better grip the loops.
Best regards to all,
Lance
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